Kashmiri Cuisine, Kashmiri Wazwan, a little Kashmiri History, and Kashmiri Recipes
This page came about when I started writing up my Kashmiri lamb rogan josh recipe, a dish I’d already been teaching for over ten years. As it was my first Kashmiri recipe on LinsFood, I naturally got carried away with the history and food culture, as you know I like to do.
Before long, it became obvious that I had far too much material for a single recipe post. So I decided to give Kashmiri cuisine a page of its own. And here we are.
Single and Living in London
I spent over a year learning the Kashmiri culture and cuisine from a family in West London. It all started with me frequenting this corner shop, run by Mr Ghulam. Occasionally, his wife, whom I only ever addressed as Mrs Ghulam, would be there too.
I think I’ve said this before in an earlier post: when you are a young, single girl in London, living on your own, everybody wants to adopt you! Especially when you have the sort of complexion that can pass for any number of cultures.
The Italians think I’m Italian (see my Affogato post), the Middle Easterners think I’m one of them, including the Israelis (see my Gefilte post), and the Spaniards, and don’t get me started on the south Asians!
So anyway, one thing led to another, I became friends with the older kids who were a few years younger, and I soon found myself at their place almost every Sunday, for dinner.
This was the start of my Kashmiri education. And my taste of a real rogan josh.
One day, I suggested that Mrs Ghulam, who was a former English teacher, should think about conducting cooking classes. It took about 2 months for all of us to work on her before she finally capitulated.
We started with 4 students, once a fortnight. By the time we finished, well over a year later, she was doing it weekly, and had a waiting list. It also got to the stage where her oldest, Shirin, and I started conducting half the classes together. So in that time alone, I lost count of how many times I cooked rogan josh, and countless other Kashmiri dishes.
One of my biggest regrets to this day, is that I missed Shirin’s wedding in Kashmir in autumn 1997. They’d promised me a Royal Wazwan, and I was all set, with tickets booked and outfits purchased. Then, I got a devastating call from Singapore about a loss in the family. So that was that.
Fast forward a few years, sometime in 2013, I put out an ad for someone to cook Indian food in the cooking school that I ran from home. I had so many applications, but settled on this one lady whose husband worked for the local JP Morgan. And the reason I chose her – you guessed it – she was from Kashmir! And the best part, she was a Kashmiri Pandit, my earlier education was by a Kashmiri Muslim. Colour me lucky!
Sadly, Lalita only taught us for 6 months, as her husband’s posting ended soon, and they moved to Canada for his next job. But that was more than enough time for me to learn, learn and learn!
Unbelievably, despite teaching Kashmiri recipes in my classes all these years, this is the first time I’m blogging about it, and only after many complaints from readers over the years!
I had a lot of fun writing and researching this article for the simple reason that I love history. And the history of the Indian subcontinent, both ancient and modern, was something I studied and enjoyed at A levels (11th/12th grade). Consequently, it took me weeks to write up this page and the rogan josh recipe post! Because I kept unearthing more and more history and culture, that it became a challenge when deciding what to include and what to leave on the kitchen floor, so to speak.
Where is Kashmir?
Kashmir is a Himalayan region in northern South Asia, with different areas administered by India, Pakistan and China. The Kashmir Valley, with Srinagar at its heart, lies in Indian-administered Kashmir, and it’s mainly the food traditions of this valley that we’re looking at here.
In the past, the term Kashmir specifically meant the Kashmir valley. There are a couple of local legends explaining its creation; the most common one is that of the lake being drained by a sage, Kashyap, and the resulting valley named after him.
A little Kashmiri History
There isn’t a single, homogeneous Kashmiri cuisine. As with most regional cuisines, you’ll find differences from area to area, family to family and, naturally, cook to cook. Broadly speaking, though, we can look at two major traditions: Kashmiri Muslim and Kashmiri Pandit cooking.
Both traditions include meat and vegetarian dishes, although the ingredients and methods can differ. One of the better-known distinctions concerns onions and garlic, which are common in Kashmiri Muslim cooking but traditionally avoided in Kashmiri Pandit kitchens. Pandit cooking makes characteristic use of asafoetida, or hing, while dried ginger and fennel feature prominently in both traditions.
Kashmiri cuisine has also been shaped by centuries of contact with Persia, Central Asia and the neighbouring regions of the Indian subcontinent.
One often-repeated account connects the professional Kashmiri cooks, known as wazas, with artisans and cooks who arrived from Samarkand and other parts of Central Asia around the time of Timur’s campaigns in the late 14th and early 15th centuries.
The wazas themselves have a tradition of tracing their ancestry to these cooks, although establishing a direct historical connection is another matter. What we can say is that Persian and Central Asian influences became important parts of Kashmir’s culinary heritage, alongside the valley’s own established food traditions.
This invasion is conventionally thought to be the beginning of modern Kashmiri Cuisine.
The Powers that ruled Kashmir
Mughal rule: 1586–1752
Afghan rule: 1752–1819
Sikh rule: 1819–1846
Dogra rule: 1846–1947
Over the centuries, Kashmiri cuisine continued to evolve, absorbing influences from the various powers that ruled the valley. Persian, Central Asian, Afghan and Mughal influences all played their part, alongside the cooking traditions that were already established in Kashmir.
“Agar firdaus bar ru-ye zamin ast
Hamin ast-o hamin ast-o hamin ast”
“If there is Paradise on earth
It is this, it is this, it is this”
These famous lines have often been attributed to Emperor Jahangir, who was particularly fond of Kashmir, although their actual authorship remains disputed. They’re also inscribed in the Diwan-i-Khas at Delhi’s Red Fort, and have been attributed to the Persian poet Amir Khusrau, among others.
Whoever wrote them, the words certainly suit Kashmir. Jahangir himself visited the valley repeatedly, and the Mughals left their mark on its architecture, gardens, culture and cuisine.
What is the Kashmiri Wazwan?
The wazwan is a multi course meal unlike anything you’ve ever come across! Dish after dish after dish, and mainly of meat, but served and flavoured differently.
Two of the best-known dishes served at a traditional wazwan are rista, Kashmiri meatballs in a red, saffron-flavoured gravy, and gushtaba, larger meatballs in a yoghurt-based sauce, traditionally served towards the end of the feast. I’ve made both, and you can find the recipes here on LinsFood.
The grandest of these is the Royal Wazwan, traditionally associated with a staggering 36 dishes! That’s dishes, rather than 36 separate courses as we might understand them in Western dining, since some are served together while others arrive in succession. And many of them are meat dishes, particularly lamb. Can you imagine getting through that lot?
Over the years, I’ve heard countless stories of the Royal Wazwan, and have always wanted to experience one; who doesn’t? But the most number of dishes I’ve ever had in a wazwan was 24, at a wedding in West London, and that was an incredible experience in its own right. If truth be told, I’d probably struggle with the full shebang!
What does Wazwan mean?
The word wazwan is commonly explained as coming from waz, meaning cook or cooking, and wan, meaning shop. Whatever the precise history of the name, wazwan is far more than a large meal. It’s a magnificent feast, with its own traditions, specialist cooks, preparation methods and serving rituals. Whether there are 12 dishes, 24 or the full Royal Wazwan of 36, it’s quite an undertaking.
In 2017, the Jammu and Kashmir government issued an order intended to reduce extravagance and food waste at weddings and other celebrations. Among other things, it restricted the number of dishes to seven meat and seven vegetarian preparations. However, the order was challenged in court and eventually quashed by the High Court of Jammu & Kashmir and Ladakh on 30 November 2023.
Traditionally, guests at a wazwan sit on the floor in groups of four, sharing their food from a large copper platter called a traem, also spelt trami. The platter is heaped with rice and an assortment of meat dishes, with further preparations brought out as the meal progresses. Chutneys and yoghurt are served alongside.
Before the food arrives, there’s the ceremonial washing of hands. An attendant goes around with a jug and basin known as the tash-t-naer, allowing everyone to wash their hands before eating. The meal is traditionally eaten with the right hand.
This particular ritual, the hand washing, the food coming out in trays and the sitting on the floor, is something that I remember very well from my childhood. So perhaps a practice found in a few cultures, not just Kashmiri.
One of the interesting things about wazwan is how skilfully the cooks make use of different parts of the animal, including cuts that might otherwise be overlooked. Even offal has its place, as in traditional preparations of methi maaz, which can include sheep or goat intestines cooked with fenugreek and spices.
I’ve also heard the term saal used in connection with Kashmiri Pandit feasts, although it’s not something everyone I’ve spoken to is familiar with. The word means feast, and you’ll find it in the title of Chandramukhi Ganju’s cookbook, Koshur Saal, meaning Kashmiri Feast. Kashmiri Pandit ceremonial meals have their own dishes and customs, so it would be misleading to describe saal as simply the Pandit equivalent of wazwan.
Kashmiri Breads
The Kashmir Valley is also famous for its breads, with traditional bakers, known as kandurs, producing an impressive variety in their clay tandoors. Bread is very much part of everyday life, whether eaten for breakfast, alongside a meal or with a cup of tea. And as you might expect, different towns and communities have their own specialities.
Here are just a few of the breads you’ll come across:
Tsochwor (or tilvor): A ring-shaped bread rather like a bagel, with a slightly firm texture and usually sprinkled with sesame seeds. Often enjoyed with butter or dunked into nun chai, Kashmir’s traditional salted tea.
Sheermal: A mildly sweet, milk-enriched bread. Kashmiri versions vary, with the sheermal from Pampore being particularly well known.
Roth: A rich, sweet bread associated with celebrations and special occasions, often decorated with nuts.
Lavasa: A thin flatbread baked in a tandoor, made in both soft and crisp versions. The soft variety is particularly useful for wrapping around meat and other fillings.
Kulcha: Quite different from the soft, naan-like kulcha found elsewhere in India. Traditional Kashmiri kulcha is generally small, crisp and crumbly, with both sweet and savoury varieties.
Bakerkhani: A rich, layered bread made with ghee and baked until crisp. You’ll find related breads elsewhere in South Asia, although the Kashmiri version has its own characteristics.
Along this journey, we’ll also look at some Kashmiri drinks and perhaps, some street food too.
And there you have it, a little background on all things Kashmiri. If there is anything I’ve left out, or got wrong, feel free to leave me a message in the comments below. And now, let’s get on with the recipes which will come in over time. Starting with a British favourite, Rogan Josh.
What a beautiful deep dive into Kashmiri cuisine and culture! Your personal journey learning from both Muslim and Pandit families adds such richness to the post. The way you tie in history, geography, and the evolution of the Wazwan really highlights how layered and unique Kashmiri food is. Looking forward to seeing more recipes on this page—Rogan Josh is just the perfect place to start!
Thanks.,
Bismi Caterers Perambur
Thank you, I’m pleased you think so.
i spent many years in Kashmir , mostly in Srinagar and have both attended and hosted wazwans (once for 400+ people)
I enjoyed your article so much . i always remembered Gushtaba in a white sauce and not a soupy one at that .
I didn’t always like the dish as I was full beyond full as it was always traditionally the last dish to be served and very very dense
I also remember the servers wrapping their arms in protective cloth as they brought out the various dishes straight off the fire or transferred
to smaller “carry pots ” (or the actual cooking pots if they were small ones) and going to thali after thali dispensing hot morsels in front of the now newly defined personal rice areas in front of each of the four men sharing the meal
Initially the thali was brought out with a mountain of rice in the middle that eaters would draw down from as the meal progressed and thusly creating the smaller personal “mounds”
And then the wash up, while still being seated on the carpetd floor , with samavars of hot water followed by the the ever present tobbaco chillums that were passed around from man to man
Women and men ae separately
Hi David, I’m pleased to hear that you enjoyed this article. I’m envious of your experience of attending and hosting wazwans. Thank you so much for sharing your memories, I can picture the scenes you describe, having grown up with similar practices. Including the separation of the men from the women.
Very well written.
Traditionally, the Muslims would use shallots and garlic which the Pandits abstained. Garlic was not cooked by Kashmiri Pandits. Kashmiri Pandits use ginger & dry ginger powder (sonth).
Thank you.
Thank you.
Is that asafetida? Hing ?
Asafoetida is hing, if that’s what you’re asking, John. Also spelt asafetida.
Hi Azlin,
I was hunting around for variations of Rogan Josh recipes to see what was reasonably authentic, to learn a thing or two about the culture, the variations, the flavour optimisation, before I start making it you know…
Then I came across your page.
All I can say is wow.
Feels like you have really covered your bases.
The details you have gone to, the effort of clarifying the details, the provenance, the meanings, the culture behind it all, it really shows your dedication and enthusiasm for food and who you are!
It makes me also want to attend a Royal Wazwan too!! Or even a Wazwan at that 🙂
Thank you for having that influence on me, and I’m sure on many others!
Hi Jinn, I read your email first thing today, and it got me off to a very good start!
Thank you so much for your wonderful words and acknowledgement, I’m really pleased that you enjoyed the work I put in. I pride myself on being different from most other food bloggers – I believe a recipe is easy enough to obtain these days, but understanding the recipe and the culture behind it, however, enriches the experience.
Let me know how you get on making the rogan josh.
Simply amazing! I thoroughly enjoyed this read, I kind of did it backwards, cooked your rogan josh first then came here! You are so right, I appreciate the recipe better now, with this in my head! Thanks Lin, really looking forward to this journey with you.
Thank you, Mona. I’m so pleased that you enjoyed this article, it took me many, many hours to get it right!